Friday, March 28, 2014

Bandhav Garh National Park

Getting to Bandhav Garh is a feat unto itself.  Our flight from Delhi to Khajurado took about 3 hours but the drive from Khajurado our lodge, Mahua Kothi, took about 6 hours. The road is generally paved throughout with ongoing repairs on about 10% of it, but you share the narrow road with cows, motorcycles, bicycles, heavy trucks, dogs, and little children who seem to believe it is ok to sit on the edge of the pavement.  Top that with Indian drivers who are incessantly honking and passing each other, it makes for a nerve-wracking experience.  The entire route is farmed by local, small farmers.  Women can be seen everywhere cutting the wheat by hand and putting it in bundles. Children are also involved.  Some children attend school and you can tell who they are by the colorful uniforms they wear.  Other children, probably of the lower castes, just toil in the sun.  For the entire 6 hour drive we made just one "pit stop".  Those that know Gana will consider that statement an impossibility, but it's true.  There is only one place deemed clean enough for western tourist.

The lodge, Mahua Kothi, is an And Beyond property so it is very nice.  Rooms are large with bath and shower, air conditioned, very comfortable.   Service is exceptional.

I can't figure out this game viewing in Bandhav Garh.  The park is divided into three zones and on any drive you can only be in one zone.  So yesterday morning we were in Zone 2 and had a nice tiger sighting.  Yesterday afternoon and this morning we were assigned Zone 3 and we ate dust.  The procedure for each drive is this; we leave the lodge and drive to the guide station where we pick up our guide for that drive.  Then we head out to the zone we are assigned.  It's about a 30 minute drive on a dusty road to hit the turnoff to our zone. In each zone there may be up to 20 vehicles total so if you see a tiger chances are you will also see 19 vehicles.  This is not always the case but you must be prepared for it.  So how can my guide and/or lodge make sure I get in the best zone to see a tiger?  I don't know if it's possible but I will find out.


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